Should we be expecting more from our cosmetic products? Can they be used for more than simply covering up the skin? Can they actually support skin health? In short, yes and skincare professionals should start considering how they can use quality cosmetics to help take their client’s skin health all the way through to the finish line.

Though consumers have become more ingredient aware than ever, paying attention to ingredients they’re putting into and on their bodies, that same level of awareness doesn’t always carry over to the ingredients in their makeup bag. Many have been taught to steer clear of parabens and products tested on animals, but they may not know the other hidden ingredients that wreak havoc on the skin, and what the healthy alternatives are.

Considering makeup is typically on the skin ––a living, breathing organism –– throughout most of the day, we can count on the fact that it most certainly will impact the overall health of the skin. And it’s time we start educating clients on how they can further support their skin health goals by incorporating the right ingredients into their makeup routine.

Ingredients to incorporate into the makeup bag

Advancements in ingredients and distillation processes in cosmetic products have now made it possible to have beauty and healthy skin. In fact, many of the ingredients used in professional skincare also make for ideal ingredients in any cosmetic product. Ingredients like antioxidants, natural minerals, vitamins, and omega 3 fatty acids, which are incorporated into the RA IllumiColour line, help support optimal skin health.

The following are some of the healthy skin-promoting ingredients now being used in cosmetics –– and each will make a good addition to the makeup routine:

• Bismuth oxychloride – found in mineral makeup, it’s responsible for that pearly, iridescent look. It’s an inorganic compound naturally found in the mineral bismoclite. It provides a smooth, luxurious feel and is the key ingredient which helps keep powder looking fresh all day.
• Mica – a light, natural, silicate mineral that gives a luminous glow to the skin.

• Boron nitride – found in various crystalline forms, improves the application of the mineral foundation and adheres to the skin for long lasting wear.
• Tapioca powder – a natural starch extract from the cassava root, it is responsible for giving powder a light feel on the skin.
• Carrot seed extract – provides antioxidant, antiseptic and beta-carotene support and is known to help sensitive skin. It provides hydration and brings new life to the skin.
• Squalane – a naturally occurring lipid in plants, it supports the skin in retaining moisture and guards against UV radiation.
• Zinc oxide – the safest, non-irritating broad spectrum UV absorbing material, it protects and soothes skin and provides healing relief.

• Cetearyl olivate/sorbitan olivate – a unique biomimetic restructuring agent from pure olive oil that restores and maintains the integrity of the skin barrier, gives tonicity and elasticity to the skin, reduces inflammation, helps carry other active ingredients into the deeper epidermal layers, provides brilliance to the skin and protects skin from harsh environmental assaults and UV rays.
• Natural wax (sunflower seed, candelilla, beeswax, orange peel) complex – an all-natural, emulsifying wax complex used to trap-in moisture and defend skin from environmental assaults without clogging pores. It also is an anti-inflammatory, rich in nutrients and phytosterol support that prevents damage to cells, and protects collagen and elastin production. We use this in our IllumiColour Lips to protect and hydrate the delicate skin on the lips.

These are just a few of the natural ingredients used as alternatives to the toxic, chemically derived ingredients being used by many in the cosmetic industry. We also love using pure Vitamin E, Omega essential fatty acids, Hyaluronic Acid, and Milk Protein. Beyond giving the desired consistency and feel, they can serve a dual purpose, delivering healthy skin-promoting benefits. This is important to point out when educating clients. Focus on the benefits that go beyond simply covering up the skin.

But if we only look at the ingredients, we’re only seeing half the picture. We also have to be cognizant of how cosmetics, particularly mineral products, are milled. For instance, our IllumiColour mineral mattes, creams and powders are milled a minimum of three times to eliminate impurities, and ensure light application and buildable coverage. In mineral makeups, purity is key. It allows the minerals to sit on the surface of the skin to protect it, whereas mineral makeups that contain other chemicals will penetrate the skin. This reduces the formulas ability to protect the skin from UV rays and introduces unhealthy chemicals to the skin. This video demonstrates what to look for in mineral powders.

The troublesome 7 to avoid

While some over-the-counter cosmetic brands have improved their ingredient decks over the years, there are still many using harsh chemicals, parabens and fragrances that harm the skin. These ingredients are being used in everything from foundations to powders, and mascaras to eyeshadows and lip products. Among the most common are sodium lauryl sulfate, parabens, synthetic colorants, polyethylene/PEGs, petroleum distillates, formaldehyde, and fragrance.

Formaldehyde, a preservative used to prevent bacteria growth in water-based products, is a chemical that has been recognized as a human carcinogen and it’s also been known to cause allergic skin reactions.

Parabens are commonly used preservatives that extend the shelf life of products. They prevent bacteria, mold and yeast from growing in cosmetic products, but they also contain estrogen-mimicking properties that have been linked to certain forms of cancer.

Polyethylene (or PEGs) is another synthetic chemical considered a human carcinogen. It penetrates the skin and can cause skin irritation. Similarly, petroleum distillates have also been found to contain cancer-causing impurities and are most often produced in oil refineries that produce automobile fuel.

Fragrance is by far one of the most widely used, but what does it really mean? It’s somewhat of a catchall term that allows manufacturers to get away creating rather ambiguous or secret formulas. Often these concoctions contain hormone disruptors and various chemicals, and are among the top allergic-reaction triggers in the world.

You also need to watch for Synthetic Vitamin E. We have seen this in a lot of lip products and foundations. This can really impact the skin negatively.

Many products today also have sunscreen added into the formula, which is good in theory, but the trouble is many are using chemical ingredients. These sunscreen chemicals ––avobenzone, oxybenzone and octinoxate, to name a few –– absorb UV light, are highly absorbable by the skin, and have been found to be endocrine disruptors.

So, when talking to clients about taking their skin care through the finish line of skin health, educate them about the ingredient alternatives to look for across all of their products. Highlight ingredients within the product that will help support their skin goals and educate them on inferior ingredients that could hinder or compromise their skin’s health. In this way, it becomes more about educating rather than selling. Last but not least show the water test!